Before we go any further, let me clarify that most of the time I shoot from a tripod, BUT there are times I use AutoBracketing and Continuous High Frame rate on my Nikon D3s. Having a Frame rate of 9 frames/sec helps and I am usually using a wide angle lens (16mm Fisheye or 17-35mm). I have been able to create some pretty remarkable hand held HDRs using this method. See some of my HDRs , go to my Bill Campbell Photography Facebook page.
Now comes the fun part, after you have your images captured and downloaded, of creating HDRs in any manor of creative vision. Remember that you can make your HDR images look as nature or as artistic as you like. No judgment on either. Depends on the image, but I tend to go for the artistic representation.
I use Adobe Photoshop Lightroom 3 for my image catalog and also to do basic image editing. This makes it easy to see your images all together. Now, if you remembered to use some type of before and after marker (a hand), then choose all the images between the hands. Click on the first image and then Shift Click on the last image. All the images in between will be chosen. Then go to your editing software. If you are using NIK or HDR Expose or Photomatix, you will go to the File>Export with Preset>choose your software. This will convert your RAW images into TIFFs and open them in the HDR software.
Above are the same images shot of the outhouse at Daybreak Images (Thanks Richard and Susan) location but processed with different software…
In NIK, you have numerous presets that allow you to choose the look you want from a preset.
Here are examples of same image, different preset with no adjustments in NIK HDR Efex Pro
This is a shot of the Global Adjustment area for NIK HDR Efex Pro.
This is a shot of the Selective Adjustment area for NIK HDR Efex Pro.
This image is one that I took the Bright Room Preset and then used both the Global Adjustments and the Selective Adjustments.
And this is my son Joe, suited up for fighting fires, his passion and his possible profession.